Layers
We set out for Alhambra, a fortified city (or luxury gated community) where the 1% lived in the last years of Muslim rule over the land they called Al-Andalus. At their peak, they ruled over the entire Iberian Peninsula, having taken it from the Visagoths in the 8th century. Granada’s location was strategic for trade, agriculture and natural spring water. I was struck by the fact that the facades, courtyards, walls and gardens of Alhambra were not exceptional in their beauty, externally. Muslim tradition dictates that the outside (of a person or a structure) should be modest. Extravagance is reserved for what is inside. Real beauty is the kind found on the inside. Indeed. We saw amazing examples of art, poetry and mathematics embedded in the décor, as well as ingenuity in the structures.
The extent of the accomplishments of the Moor Civilization is astounding, both for its achievements and its subsequent loss by Europe. When Ferdinand (Count of Barcelona, King of Aragon, etc.) and Isabella (Queen of Castille, etc.) joined in holy matrimony they proceeded to reconquer the lands and form a united Spain, achieving victory of the Reconquista in 1492. They occupied the Alhambra and proceeded to modify the architecture and art, inserting Christian symbols into the previous designs. There is even a grand, yet unfinished palace commissioned by Charles I of Spain (later Charles V of the Holy Roman Empire). Ferdinand and Isabella promised religious tolerance, but within 6 months mandated conversion or expulsion for the Jews and the Muslims. Many muslims, including the last Emir, relocated to the Alpujarras region just on the other side (Southern) of the Sierra Nevada Mountains.
Who were these Moors/Muslim inhabitants of Spain at the time of the Reconquista? Our guide said the funniest thing, and it made sense. “By that time- they were from here. They were locals. After 700+ years, you have a right to say you are from here.”
John and I followed the Emir’s path from Granada to the Alpujarras region with the intention of making a trek through the beautiful mountains and white washed villages with a promise of a nice lunch at the end. John looked a little green around the gills by the time we wound our way to the top of the last mountain curve, so he was happy to get out of the car and subject himself to the next challenge. We started up high at the village of Capileira, hiked down to the river, then back up to the next lower village, Bubion. We then hiked down some more, then over some thankfully flat land, then straight down to Pampeneira for lunch. Although our watches recorded strides of different calculated length, John had 15,000 steps and I finished the day at 13,100. The lunch was indeed magnificent. John earned a gelato for his determination and academic and physical attention span.
The Sultan's summer palace...aka Man Cave !
This appears to be the building where the Emir/Sultan held court...wait until you see the inside.
the central dome...Gaudi took some cues from what he saw in Alhambra.
they demonstrated that shapes other than regular polygons can fill space - the Alhambra Bone. Many designs used variations of the golden ratio.
The summer palace from across the river...we would travel to the other side of the snow-capped peak to hike in Alpujarras region.
I can't remember if we walked down from this village, or up to it !
Juan and Frederico in the home stretch