Romans, Visagoths, Middle Ages and more. No one expects the Spanish Inquisition!
John likes Monty Python. Who doesn't?
We spent the better part of a day in Tarragona, a modern-day coastal city in the Southeast of Catalonia. While it appears prosperous and relevant today- active port, industry, tourism...a city is best remembered for its golden age. The golden age of Tarraco, the Roman provincial capital of Hispania Tarraconensis that preceded modern day Tarragona, enjoyed its golden age in the second century of the common era. That happened to coincide with when things were going quite well for the Roman Empire itself. Tarraco population peaked at 60,000 in Roman times, descending to 1/10th that size in the middle ages. It was not until the middle of the 20th century that the 60,000 level was reached again.
The process of investigating ancient Roman ruins and the civilizations that came after always started with the same first step. Find a small coffee shop. Buy a Coca Cola for John (can’t find Pepsi) and an espresso for me, and get our minds right for discovery. Our guide, Susana was most patient with us. We walked around the 4 different platforms of the Roman city. The highest being that of the temple, then the forum, then the circus where the chariot races were held. John and I could not agree on what was more dangerous- the chariot races or the gladiator battles. We walked down to the amphitheater at sea level…a practical arrangement so that the wild animals could be brought directly from boats at the beach thru tunnels onto the competition floor. John yelled—“Are you not entertained?”
Civilization level recycling was evident in that the Romans built a church on the floor of the amphitheater to commemorate Christian martyrs that were persecuted and burned prior to Christianity becoming the official state religion. After conquering most of the Iberian peninsula, the Visagoths built a rectangular basilica design church in the very same spot- negating the Latin Cross architecture favored by the Romans. It was not used for 500 years while the Muslims were in town, but then became a convent and then a prison. You can see the outlines of different designs and different uses. Even grave stones with Roman inscriptions were used indiscriminately as structural members.
Susana promised not to torture John with endless facts and figures! In fact, she did a wonderful job with the balance of information and fact fatigue. I did make her share more about Roman history and the architecture of churches over lunch. It cost me a gelato for John which he enjoyed overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.
A tunnel connecting the preparation rooms for the chariots and the horse teams to the circus
We stood at the level of the circus, looking down at the amphitheater...and thought, what a great day for sailing on the Med !
We are on the amphitheater floor, looking parallel to the nave of the church. The walls to the left are likely of the convent. The tunnels to the right lead to the beach.
Are you not entertained ? Actually, John is quite tired of Dad pictures. But he rallied because lunch was next stop.